Spring, as they say, comes in like a lion and out like a lamb. And so too did Milan Fashion Week: Collections ranged from the soft and subtle to the downright fierce.
Dolce & Gabbana debuted its bold, faithful combo—leather and lace—to produce what Women’s Wear Daily called a “molto sexy” collection. Things were similarly strong and sleek on the Prada runway, which featured dark layers, bloomer-like onesies, and structural, midriff-bearing tops. Gucci kicked it up a notch with high hemlines, tight key-hole dresses and splayed bust-lines. And Jil Sander took “sexy” to the next level: Designer Raf Simons chose to project the sex scene from Antonioni’s Zabriskie Point behind the runway. Tightly belted layers created voluminous hips, and small flourishes of fabric cascaded down from otherwise sleek lines. Things stayed strong at Versace, where neon mesh tops gave way to even brighter mini skirts.
Click the Image Below to View Our Gallery of Milan’s Fashion Week
While many looks of the week were strong and sexy, there was, thankfully, still a hint of spring in some collections. Nothing seems further from the Versace neon number than the romantic, rose-colored gowns at Alberta Ferretti, or even the soft, cascading canvas of a Bottega Veneta jumpsuit. Consuelo Castiglioni channeled “a new sense of ease and fluidity” at Marni, with muted robes layered over skin-colored silks.
After an icy economic climate, the overall mood at Milan Fashion Week was overwhelmingly upbeat. Collections were flirty and playful. And buyers seem to have certainly bought it: “The Milan collections felt more commercially relevant than in recent seasons,” Jennifer Wheeler, vice president of designer apparel at Nordstrom, told WWD. From mesh and lace to the sheer and diaphanous, transparency was a clear favorite on the runways. And what wasn’t see-thru was short: From up the you-know-what skirts at Versace to teeny underwear at Prada, things weren’t only molto sexy in Milan—they were molto, molto mini as well.
Isabel Wilkinson is an assistant editor at The Daily Beast.