UNEXPECTED

Calvin Klein Embraces the Dark Side

Calvin Klein’s signature brand rarely shocks—and this is a good thing—but few expected Thursday’s show to be so elegantly monochromatic. The understated, nearly all-black collection from creative director Francisco Costa didn’t stray from its midnight hue until the 20th outfit flitted down the runway in ivory. Costa showed a deft manipulation of wool shearling, and he managed to make heavily sculptured, architectural jackets look like light, delicate pieces. While the wraparound black plissé dresses he showed were notable for their simple sexiness, it was the vibrant yellow-green velvet dresses near the end that really popped. Seems that even classic Calvin was in on the emerging trend seen everywhere this week—dark, sleek basics punched up with playful touches of acid brights.